Category: Permaculture

Permaculture

How to make a DIY wicking container

  • by Jessica

DIY wicking containers provide consistent moisture, so they keep your precious plants alive for long periods without you watering every day. They’re great for when you go on holidays, or for those of us who are just plain forgetful about watering our plants! So how does wicking work? At its most simple, water is drawn up from a reservoir through the soil to the roots of your plants. You can build wicking systems from many containers—foam boxes, closed pots, wine barrels, or large food-grade Intermediate Bulk Containers (IBCs)—but they all rely on this same principle. In this project we demonstrate a simple example using a cut plastic bottle.

Materials Needed:

  • Plastic bottle (1.25-litre works well), hard is better than super soft plastic
  • Special potting mix: compost, perlite (or other free‑draining material), and a little manure
  • Garden gloves
  • Scissors and box cutter
  • Cotton rope, string, or natural fibre fabric strip, about 5 cm long
  • Plants
  • Gesso, and non-toxic acrylic paint (if you want to decorate it)

Important safety issue: To cut the bottle, make the first incision with a box cutter, but be careful! This can easily slip and cut your hand. Use gloves for this stage and keep your fingers and body well out of the path of the blade. Once you’ve made that first incision, you can safely complete the rest of the cut using scissors.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. Clean and Cut: Wash the plastic bottle and remove labels. With gloves on and taking care with the blade cut the bottle about three quarters of the way down. Then cut the capped section in half.
  2. Prepare the Cap: Poke a hole in the bottle cap, large enough for the wick to pass through. Again take care with the blade.
  3. Insert the Wick: Thread the cotton wick (about 6 centimetres long) through the cap, leaving a few centimetres on both sides. Tie a knot at the top end to keep the wick in place.
  4. Assemble and Fill: Screw the cap back on. Place the top half of the bottle upside down (cap down) into the base.
  5. Planting: Place the plant into the top section, ensuring the wick is surrounded by soil, then fill any gaps with the special potting mix.
  6. Add Water: Half-fill the bottom reservoir with water, ensuring the bottom of the wick is submerged.  Now gently water in your plant from the top ­– don’t overdo it, just a gentle sprinkle. (This ensures the soil settles well around the plant.)
  7. Decorate: If you would like your wicking container to match your decor, you can paint the plastic with Gesso. Gesso is a non-toxic primer that helps paint adhere to the surface. Once the gesso is dry after a few hours you can paint your container how you like.


General information on wicking containers

Plants that grow well in wicking beds: Plants that thrive in consistently moist, well-aerated soil. Thirsty plants: leafy greens, tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, capsicum, basil, mint, parsley.

Plants that don’t grow well in wicking containers: Those that prefer dry conditions or require wet/dry cycles, like, Mediterranean herbs, succulents, cacti, plus seeds can rot in highly moist conditions so plant mainly seedlings.

Note on optimal soil levels:

For water to wick properly in a large wicking container, your soil should optimally be around 30 centimetres, no more. Any more and the wicking effect is lost.

Anatomy of a self-watering (wicking) container: An example of a wicking bed made using a simple pond liner to capture the water. Water beds using the pipe that feeds into the water reservoir. A weed mat separates the soil from the pebbles. Care needs to be taken not to use sharp pebbles, which will pierce the pond liner. An overflow pipe allows any excess water to flow out of the system.

To add nutrients:

You can feed your wicking barrel, bed or pot by adding a worm tower. This can be as simple as a brown cardboard tube, ag pipe or an old clay water pipe. Whatever food-safe material you can find is fine (note that cardboard will need to be replaced eventually, and there is some debate about whether cardboard is safe, please do your research on this). Bury a short section of pipe about 10 centimetres deep, leaving a few centimetres of the pipe above the surface. Add your worms and well-cut veggie scraps. Take care to always cover the scraps with extra soil to prevent smells and reduce the chances of attracting flies. Then place an upturned pot or lid on top so vermin cannot climb in and eat your veggie scraps!

Other wicking projects to try:

How-to-make-a-DIY-wicking-containerDownload
Photo by JustPhotof Garden apartment & Video on Unsplash Permaculture

Waterwise and Shade Tolerant Herbs, Flowers and Trees for…

  • by Jessica

If you’re living in an Australian apartment with small part-shade courtyards, don’t despair. These waterwise herbs, flowers, and trees offer edible fruits or leaves and suit border plantings–and can be perfect for your space.

Waterwise Edible Herbs

  • Warrigal Greens (Tetragonia tetragonioides): Native, shade-tolerant, edible cooked leaves.
  • Mint, parsley, coriander, chervil, and lemon balm: All handle part-shade and have culinary uses.
  • Comfrey and chicory: Edible leaves, tough in dry conditions, with both culinary and medicinal value.

Edible Flowers for Borders

  • Borage: Star-shaped blue flowers, edible and highly drought-tolerant.
  • Calendula (English marigold): Edible petals and can handle part-shade spots.
  • Native Pigface (Carpobrotus glaucescens): Succulent, waterwise, edible fruits and flowers.
  • Blue Flax Lily (Dianella caerulea): Edible seeds and berries, drought-tolerant, decorative strappy leaves.

Waterwise Edible Trees or Shrubs

  • Midyim Berry (Austromyrtus dulcis): Part-shade-loving shrub, edible berries like mild blueberries.
  • Dwarf Fig (Ficus carica): Adaptable to part-shade, drought-tolerant and compact for apartments.
  • Feijoa/Pineapple Guava (Acca sellowiana): Waterwise, edible fruit, can be grown as a hedge.
  • Strawberry Guava (Psidium cattleianum): Low-maintenance, hardy, edible berries.

Other Notables for Raised Beds

  • Queensland Arrowroot (Canna edulis): Edible tubers, large leaves, suitable for dappled shade.
  • Ginger: edible tubers.
  • Turmeric: edible tubers.

Tips for Success

  • Mix varieties for year-round interest and resilience to dry spells.
  • Select compact or dwarf varieties for tight spaces or pots.
  • Mulch well and adjust watering for part-shaded, moisture-retaining sites.

By planting these waterwise, edible options, it’s possible to support both beauty and harvest in small, shaded borders of Australian apartment complexes. *Note that my suggestions work best in a temperate environment.

Permaculture

A permaculture approach to the future of forestry

  • by Jessica

A permaculture approach to the future of forestry

To the Independent Forestry Panel,

Re: Response to the Independent Forestry Panel’s call for stakeholder feedback on the Forestry Industry Action Plan by the NSW Government.

As a permaculture designer, sustainability facilitator, and former board and team member of several non-profit humanitarian and environmental organisations in Australia, I am writing in response to your call for submissions for the sustainability of forestry operations in New South Wales.

Permaculture is a systems thinking approach which can be applied to farming, forestry, gardening, and to much broader contexts of workplaces, work-life balance and beyond. Its principles provide guidelines to create not only sustainable systems, but resilient, holistic approaches to community management of resources. Hence it can easily and readily be adapted to a holistic approach to forestry.

First we need to acknowledge the value of trees, particularly old-growth forests.

Old-growth forests hold immense value for both ecology and human subsistence, particularly in the context of climate change. It should be noted from the outset, that the wholesale clearing of old-growth forests for the following reasons must be banned, not only in this state, but throughout Australia.

In regards to their ecological value, old-growth forests provide or contribute to:

  • critical habitats for a wide range of species, including many that are endangered. The complex structure of these forests—characterised by multiple canopy layers, large trees, and decaying wood—supports diverse flora and fauna.[1]
  • carbon sequestration. These forests are significant carbon sinks, capable of sequestering large amounts of atmospheric CO₂. They continue to absorb carbon throughout their lifespan, contributing to climate change mitigation efforts.[2] Disturbing old-growth forests can release stored carbon back into the atmosphere, exacerbating climate issues.[3]
  • soil formation and health by retaining more carbon and nitrogen than younger forests. This retention is crucial for maintaining nutrient cycles and supporting plant growth.[4]
  • unique microclimates that help moderate temperatures and humidity levels, benefiting both the forest ecosystem and surrounding areas.[5]
  • maintaining clean water supplies by regulating water cycles and filtering pollutants through their complex root systems.[6]

How much old-growth forest is left in New South Wales?

Troublingly, fewer than 10% of old-growth forests in the state are left due to extensive clearing and disturbances from logging, grazing, and other human activities.[7]

According to the DEC website: ‘Old-Growth Forests are considered rare across the landscape. Their protection is very important to the maintenance of biodiversity.’[8]

DEC Website

The value of forests in any context, are closely tied to human subsistence. Forestry NSW is no doubt aware of their uses and significance in terms of:

  • timber, medicinal plants, and food sources like mushrooms and berries. We would like to emphasise here that the sustainable harvesting of these resources can support local economies. ‘Sustainable’ means that they must be done in a way that preserves ecological integrity.[9]
  • cultural value for many communities, including First Nations peoples who have historically relied on these ecosystems for sustenance and spiritual practices. Their preservation is crucial for maintaining cultural heritage.[10]
  • recreation and tourism, which can generate economic benefits while fostering a connection between people and nature. The aesthetic beauty of old-growth forests also contributes to mental well-being and community identity.[11]

Climate change mitigation is the greatest argument for the preservation of old-growth forests in that it speaks to the future of generations to come, and indeed, life on this planet. Every government (whether local, state or federal), organisation, and individual must approach mitigation with utmost seriousness.

Protecting old-growth forests is essential for climate adaptation strategies as they enhance ecosystem resilience. Their complex structures can buffer against extreme weather events, helping both flora and fauna survive and adapt to changing conditions.[12]

An important note about carbon credits. The protection of old-growth forests can play a role in carbon trading markets, providing financial incentives while contributing to global carbon reduction goals. Logging and thinning practices at an industrial scale (as opposed to a community or individual level) for carbon credits risks releasing more carbon than it saves, especially in relation to old-growth forests, undermining climate benefits.[13]

Carbon Storage in Old Trees vs. New Trees

Old-Growth Forests[14]Young Forests[15]
highly effective at storing carbon due to their large biomassabsorb carbon at a faster rate due to rapid growth
can sequester approximately 950 million to 1.11 billion metric tons of carbon per year globallycan store between 1.17 and 1.66 billion metric tons of carbon per year
accumulate carbon over their long lifespans, sequestering more carbon than they emit, making them important carbon sinksthe total volume of carbon they can store is generally lower than that of mature forests because they have less biomass overall
a mature tree can store much more carbon over its lifetime compared to a young tree, which may take decades to reach a similar storage capacity[16] 
contribute to soil carbon storage, holding significant amounts of carbon[17]   
Carbon Storage in Old Trees vs. New Trees

The key distinction lies in the volume of carbon stored versus the rate of sequestration. Young forests may sequester carbon more rapidly, but old-growth forests hold much larger quantities due to their greater biomass and long-term accumulation capabilities.

In conclusion, while young trees contribute significantly to annual carbon uptake, old trees and forests are crucial for long-term carbon storage and ecological stability. Their protection is essential for effective climate change mitigation strategies.

Key Considerations

Let’s now look at a permaculture approach and how it can be applied to sustainable forestry.

When permaculturists design systems we look to long-term resilience. If parties wish to continue to profit from forestry it’s imperative that they advocate for forestry practices that enhance ecosystem resilience, ensuring forests can withstand climate change and other environmental stressors. If that is not prioritised, there will be no remaining forests from which to profit.

Value Trees

The first strategy is to minimise tree removal wherever possible. Part of the issue is the over-reliance on trees for products that simply do not need to be made from trees. For example toilet paper, packaging and fabric are often made from tree pulp. As an alternative, bamboo, flax, hemp and wheat straw have fibres that could be produced, with less deleterious effects on the environment.

In order to make this shift possible, forestry needs to have a plan to transition its workforce away from trees to more sustainable industries. I acknowledge this must first happen at a government level, removing subsidies.

Respect Traditional Land Management

Key to all considerations is that we must recognise and incorporate First Nations values in forest management practices, ensuring respect for traditional land management techniques. (See also Strategy 3: Prioritise soils.) Deep connection is key to a sustainable policy.

Diversity

If trees must be cut down, when we plan forestry operations, biodiversity must be a key factor. Promoting mixed-species plantations will enhance ecological stability and resilience against pests and diseases.

Monoculture plantations have faced significant challenges and failures due to their lack of biodiversity, which makes them vulnerable to pests, diseases, and environmental changes. Here are some notable examples:

Examples of Failures of Monoculture Plantings

  • Irish Potato Famine (1840s): The reliance on a single potato variety led to catastrophic crop failure when a water mould (Phytophthora infestans) devastated the crop. (Note this was not the only factor leading to the famine, but it was a significant one.)
  • Banana Industry Collapse (1950s–present day): The Gros Michel banana variety which dominated the global banana market until the 1950s was hit by Panama disease, caused by a soil-borne fungus (Fusarium oxysporum), thus wiping out plantations. The Cavendish variety, which now dominates, is now also facing similar threats from new strains of the same disease.
  • Eucalyptus Plantations in Australia and beyond: Monoculture eucalyptus plantations have led to reduced biodiversity and soil degradation. Significant ecological imbalances affect local wildlife and water resources, not to mention contributing to significant fire risks. The 2017 wildfires in Portugal, which resulted in 66 fatalities, were exacerbated by extensive eucalyptus monocultures.
  • Rubber Plantations in Southeast Asia: The expansion of rubber monocultures has led to deforestation and loss of biodiversity. Studies show that these plantations often fail to support the diverse ecosystems that existed prior, resulting in a decline in species richness and habitat loss.

The impacts of monoculture plantations include:[18]

  • greater susceptibility to pest outbreaks because they lack natural predators that would be present in a biodiverse ecosystem. This often leads to increased pesticide use, which can harm non-target species and lead to further ecological imbalances.
  • the depletion of specific nutrients from the soil, leading to reduced fertility over time. This necessitates higher inputs of fertilisers and can ultimately result in soil exhaustion.
  • altered local hydrological cycles, leading to decreased water availability for surrounding ecosystems and communities.

Soil Health

We need to highlight the role of healthy soils in sustainable forestry. To do this we must look to original habitats for best practice examples. Healthy landscapes in Australia prior to colonisation had multiple layers of canopy, groundcovers, and abundant mycorrhizal networks. The systems were kept in balance for millennia by wildlife and First Nations people who cohabitated within the landscape, providing targeted harvesting ensuring future use and mosaic (or cool) burns for weed and plant management.

When planning for soil health we must engage communities that have a strong connection to the land, and its workings. We cannot supplant millennia of sensitive management with an industrial process. (The results of that are clear to see: since European settlement, human activities have led to significant soil degradation in Australia, including erosion, acidification, and salinisation.)

A connection to and expansion of Local Land Services Aboriginal Ranger Programs is key to re-connecting the land to soil health. Monoculture plantings, huge climate fuelled bushfires, and clear-felling of New South Wales forestry has led to the abundance of eucalyptus in the landscape, which has fed into the negative cycle of poor soil and wider ecological health and climate crisis. We must return to first principles: diversity is key.

Engaging farmers within the wider community on issues or soil health and management is crucial to the success of the forestry industry, as no ecology, including NSW forests, exists in a vacuum. Connecting farmers to already existing programs on soil health, including those run by Australian Organic Limited (formerly known as Biological Farmers of Australia) is crucial to wider systems health. Overfertilising, and spraying of pesticides common in NSW farming systems impacts the wider systems that relate to forestry, notably soils, air and water quality. Examples are abundant.

Regular monitoring programs and access to education (run by independent parties) for all industry participants and those in wider industries such as farming are crucial to the success of any soil management program.

Water Management

When it comes to plantations water conservation techniques, such as swales and rainwater harvesting can help maintain water quality and availability for wider forest ecosystems.

Keeping water in soils is the most efficient way to keep water on a site (as well as preserving the trees, which act as water pumps). To do so we must ensure our ancient soils have access to the diversity of life so abundant in complex healthy and traditionally-maintained ecologies.

Soils that have access to plentiful organic materials act like sponges. Clear-felling often removes not only trees but the organic materials on the forest floor essential to the protection of the soil and regeneration of the forest, and beyond that the continuation of the water cycle which is crucial to the healthy and balanced continuation of the ecology.

Community Involvement

Engage local communities in forestry management decisions, thereby fostering a sense of stewardship and ensuring that local knowledge and needs are incorporated.

During the most recent and catastrophic bushfire season of 2019–2020 permaculture communities were instrumental in disaster planning, but also mitigation within their own communities.

If these and wider communities are consulted prior to such disastrous situations, their approaches to management will aid in the dissemination of local expert knowledge, and can thus bring a flexible and thoughtful response to forestry management.

Community approaches to forestry management

Tony Rinaudo, known as The Forest Maker, has been teaching communities to sustainably manage forests for over two decades. He pioneered a system called Farmer Managed Natural Regeneration, which is a “low-cost land restoration technique used to combat poverty and hunger amongst poor subsistence farmers by increasing food and timber production and resilience to climate extremes”. This approach can work equally in New South Wales, as it can in Africa. In this approach locals become caretakers of forests around them, selectively pollarding and caring for trees, as per the needs of the community, prioritising the ecology to the benefit of all.

A Forest Investment Fund[19] has been trialed in various countries including Brazil and Mexico helping communities become invested in regenerating deforested and degraded land. This empowers communities to become stewards of the land, and provides them with yields, which leads to better more sustainable outcomes. If they exhaust that yield, the opportunities for the community end.

Integrate with Agriculture

Agroforestry systems where trees are integrated with crops or livestock, can provide multiple benefits such as improved biodiversity, soil health, and economic returns (if managed closely and sustainably). Again, education is key.

Regardless, any native or non-native plantation must be understood, integrated, planned for and managed within its wider context.

Key recommendations

1. Old-growth forests must be left intact, at least at the forestry industrial level.

2. Bequeath old-growth forests to communities to manage. These must not be managed by industrial processes for profit (or non-profit as the case may be when government subsidises these industries). Soil, air and water health must be top priorities. Monitor progress, health, and keep strict guidelines for harvesting and diversity.

3. Engage traditional land managers to oversee operations.

4. Run educational programs for stakeholders about sustainable forestry practices, permaculture principles, and organic farming. These will promote broader understanding and adoption of more sustainable practices. Ensure soil, air and water health are key among teachings.

5. Provide ongoing monitoring of forestry practices to assess their ecological impact, allowing for adaptive management strategies that respond to changing environmental conditions. This must be done by independent third parties on a regular basis.

6. Remove current forestry standards; they have overseen wholesale clearance of native forests to an extent never seen before in history. Replace current standards with an independent standard, established on sustainable baselines based on science. Governments must legislate that all industries linked to deforestation, go deforestation-free.

Prepared by Jessica Perini, (C) 2024 wwww.jessicaperini.com in response to the Independent Forestry Panel’s call for stakeholder feedback on the Forestry Industry Action Plan by the NSW Government, October 2024.

[1]  https://oldgrowthforestecology.org/ecological-values-of-old-growth-forests/; https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/resources/nature/landholderNotes10OldGrowthForests.pdf.

[2] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8728480/; https://www.oldgrowthforest.net/why-oldgrowth-forests.

[3] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8728480/.

[4] https://www.oldgrowthforest.net/why-oldgrowth-forests; https://oldgrowthforestecology.org/ecological-values-of-old-growth-forests/structure-composition/.

[5] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8728480/; https://www.oldgrowthforest.net/why-oldgrowth-forests.

[6] https://oldgrowthforestecology.org/ecological-values-of-old-growth-forests/; https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/resources/nature/landholderNotes10OldGrowthForests.pdf.

[7] https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/resources/nature/landholderNotes10OldGrowthForests.pdf.

[8] www.environment.nsw.gov.au.

[9] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8728480/; https://www.oldgrowthforest.net/why-oldgrowth-forests.

[10] https://oldgrowthforestecology.org/ecological-values-of-old-growth-forests/; https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/resources/nature/landholderNotes10OldGrowthForests.pdf.

[11] https://www.oldgrowthforest.net/why-oldgrowth-forests; https://oldgrowthforestecology.org/ecological-values-of-old-growth-forests/structure-composition.

[12] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8728480/; https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/resources/nature/landholderNotes10OldGrowthForests.pdf.

[13] https://oldgrowthforestecology.org/ecological-values-of-old-growth-forests/; https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8728480/; https://iceds.anu.edu.au/news-events/news/industry-push-earn-carbon-credits-australia%E2%80%99s-native-forests-would-be-blow-nature.

[14] https://psmag.com/environment/young-trees-suck-up-more-carbon-than-old-ones/; https://ijw.org/wild-carbon-storage-in-old-forests/.

[15] https://psmag.com/environment/young-trees-suck-up-more-carbon-than-old-ones/; https://news.mongabay.com/2019/05/tall-and-old-or-dense-and-young-which-kind-of-forest-is-better-for-the-climate/.

[16] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8728480/; https://ijw.org/wild-carbon-storage-in-old-forests.

[17] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8728480/

[18] https://foodrevolution.org/blog/monocropping-monoculture/; https://eos.com/blog/monoculture-farming/; https://projects.research-and-innovation.ec.europa.eu/en/horizon-magazine/rise-and-fall-monoculture-farming; https://news.mongabay.com/2008/09/monoculture-tree-plantations-are-green-deserts-not-forests-say-activists/; https://www.savingbees.org/en/2023/03/21/why-monocultures-are-not-good-for-the-environnement/; https://www.gallantintl.com/blogs/environmental-impacts-of-monoculture; https://news.mongabay.com/2019/05/tall-and-old-or-dense-and-young-which-kind-of-forest-is-better-for-the-climate/; https://www.edo.org.au/2020/10/22/is-logging-in-nsw-after-the-fires-ecologically-sustainable-expert-reports-cast-further-doubt/.

[19] https://www.cif.org/sites/cif_enc/files/knowledge-documents/kn-fip-engaging_and_empowering_local_communities_in_sustainable_forest_management_0.pdf.

Permaculture

The power of diversity: together we’re stronger

  • by Jessica

The power of diversity: together we’re stronger

Almost two decades ago we started a project to build a garden with asylum seekers in Sydney. We had almost no money, a tiny space, and lots of shade. We, as organisers, didn’t have the skills we needed to construct our garden. Everything seemed stacked against us. But we had a lot of ideas and we had plentiful free materials, glass bottles available from nearby pubs and cafes that were just being thrown out. When we asked the asylum seekers and refugees if any of them had the skills we needed, they did. And together we worked to build our beautiful garden, for almost no investment, with lots of resourceful skilled people making it a reality. Together we came up with creative ideas for what to grow in shade and up walls and in the end, we had a beautiful safe space in which to sit and chat, grow a little food and just be. On the surface, it seemed like we didn’t have much. But when we really looked we saw we had an abundance of all that we needed, we just needed to be open to the possibilities. #valuediversity#valuethemarginal#permaculture

Permaculture

Must-have herbs in the garden

  • by Jessica

Must-have herbs in the garden

Last month we enjoyed trialling some heavenly herbals in the Permabee garden. These notes accompany that session.

These are my must-have herbs in the garden. Some are used as foods, dyes, to steep as a tea or as medicinals.

A word of caution:

Always exercise caution when using herbs for the first time. Just because they’re natural doesn’t mean they’re safe to either ingest or place on your skin. They may also interact with medicines, so please exercise care with herbals.

WebMD

Basils

Annual

Sweet basil, Ocimum basilicum used in cooking, pestos etc. The problem with this basil is that if you look sideways at it and it dies. Temperamental to grow. Must find the right microclimate and water appropriately. It will tell you if it’s unhappy.

Sweet basil can be temperamental to grow. For first time gardeners, I would recommend growing a perennial basil.
Sweet basil can be temperamental to grow. For first-time gardeners, I would recommend growing a perennial basil.

Perennials

  • Pepper basil, Ocimum selloi, this basil prefers part shade. In Brazil this plant is used to treat stomachaches and as an anti-inflammatory. Don’t grow this in full sun or the leaves will turn leathery and inedible.
  • Blue spice basil, Ocimum americanum, the most fragrant basil with a strong spicy flowery aroma with hints of vanilla; a delicious addition to any salad or dish. Drops a lot of seeds, so it’s very weedy. Often grown as an annual.
  • Ocimum basilicum, ‘Cinnamon’, spicy cinnamon and mint flavours. Perennial but often grown as an annual.
  • African blue basil, Hybrid of Ocimum kilimandscharicum (camphor basil) and Ocimum basilicum (dark opal). true perennial, will last for 5 or 6 years, will grow into a woody hedge. Very easy to take cuttings, and strike easily in water. Strong camphor undertones can be offputting in dishes. I make pesto with it, but I ensure I mix it with lots of other herbs. This one will not produce viable seed, so there’s no point saving seed. Will flower continuously all year around. Bees love it. Grows up to 45 cms x 45 cm. Cut back heavily and it will grow back beautifully bushy.
African basil has camphor tones that can upset a tummy
African blue basil has a camphor taste that can be unpalatable and cause tummy ache

Lemon Verbena

Verbena, Aloysia citrodora is a small bush/tree that will grow up to a metre and a half native to South America. Grown in full sun, this herb is used in lots of facial products and moisturisers for its beautiful lemony scent, but it is by far best used as a tea. Every winter when it drops all its leaves we give it a very big haircut, up to half the plant, and it comes back in spring beautifully bushy and lush. Great for fish/poultry, potpouri and liqueurs. Lemon verbena may cause herb-drug interactions – be careful with sedatives. You can also get lime verbena.

Lemon verbena
Lemon verbena makes a beautiful addition to teas

Take cuttings in spring from soft new growth, or you can also take some in summer where there’s a hard woody end, and soft tips, remove 75% of the lower leaves and place in soil, and keep moist. They can also be rooted in water.

Salvias

  • Your typical sage, Salvia officinalis, is often used in cooking and teas.
  • Salvia dorisiana – fruit salad salvias come from Central America and has large, fragrant, soft-green leaves and magenta-pink flowers both of which can be eaten, and the leaves are made into a tea, fruit punch, cold drinks. Tea has a soothing effect. Flowers in my garden most of the year, takes very easily from cuttings.
  • Salvia elegans – ‘Pineapple Sage’, native to Mexico and Guatemala has a pineapple flavour and beautiful red edible flowers. Used as a traditional medicine by Mexicans. Spring cuttings take root easily. Fruit salads, crushed leaves, ice teas, herb spreads. Not great in hot dishes as it can lose its flavour.
  • Pineapple sage has — as the name suggests — a pineapple scent
  • Fruit salad salvias have a distinctive hot pink flower
  • Marigold has many uses: used in companion planting and also great as a dyeing plant

Lavenders

  • French lavender — Lavandula dentata — will flower much earlier than the English, and much more prolifically in my experience. French is flowering now in Sydney and has a pine-like scent. French flower may have a top knot, called a bract, look like butterflies. More ornamental, and used for essential oils.
  • English lavender — Lavandula angustifolia — sometimes will take as long as mid-summer to flower. English lavenders produce the better oils. They do better in colder climates. English lavenders are good to cook with, aromatherapy, and ornamental. Used as calming effects and might relax certain muscles. It also seems to have antibacterial and antifungal effects.
  • Giant lavender — Soft weeping flowers are tiny on my giant Allardi Lavandula × allardii, a cross between Lavandula dentata (French Lavender) and Lavandula latifolia (Portuguese Lavender) has the weepy flower heads, and the shorter flowering season. My Allardi has survived for years, while other lavenders have died out. Sweet, floral notes of French Lavender with the sharper, more camphor-like fragrance of Portuguese Lavender. Can make you sick if you steep it for too long. Soapy taste. Uses: potpourri, sachets, and sometimes in essential oil production.
  • Spanish lavender — Lavandula stoechas — blooms better in warmer climates. Ornamental, potpouri. Has distinctive rabbit ears.
Lavender is a fave
French lavender is a favourite among gardeners and can be found throughout the Permabee site

General Advice

If you’re not sure whether a particular lavender variety is edible, it’s best to stick to known culinary varieties like English Lavender. Always ensure that any lavender used in cooking is free from pesticides or other chemicals that may be harmful if ingested.

Lavender in “Four Thieves Vinegar”: One of the most famous uses of lavender during the plague was as an ingredient in “Four Thieves Vinegar,” a mixture of herbs and vinegar believed to protect against the plague. The legend says that a group of thieves used this concoction to avoid getting sick while robbing the homes of plague victims.

Herbs that deter mosquitoes

Here are some of the most effective ones:

  • Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
  • Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
  • Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
  • Citronella Grass (Cymbopogon nardus)
  • Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Herbs that deter mites

  • Mint (Mentha spp.)
  • Sage (Salvia officinalis)
  • Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus spp.)
  • Neem (Azadirachta indica)

Disclaimer: I do not advise or recommend herbs for medicinal or health uses. This information is intended for educational purposes only and does not consitute medical advice. Please consult your health care provider before pursuing any herbal treatments.

Seed raising Permaculture

Seed raising resources

  • by Jessica

November 2024 Seed Raising at the Sustainability Hub, Randwick

Thanks so much to everyone who came to our November session at Randwick. We’re in the process of setting up a more formal seed saving group, so if you’re interested, please let me know!

We processed several types of seeds on the day including:

  • Nigella damascena, love-in-a-mist, or devil in the bush. This flowering plant, belonging to the buttercup family Ranunculaceae, is one of the most beautiful flowers you can grow in your garden. Its seed has been used as a condiment. Unfortunately, the seed package was not labelled, so I originally thought these seeds may have been Nigella Sativa (black cumin), which looks identical and is also grown on our site — so apologies if that’s what I told you it was! Read more about damascena here.
Giant Red Mustard
  • Mustard greens are spicy — I’ll say that up front because not everyone likes spicy. They can be grown as sprouts, spicy greens (we call them wasabi greens), and their seed pods can be roasted. They’re a brassica, and you’ll notice their leaves are thick like other plants in the Brassicaceae family, like turnip and bok choi. Read about the various ways to eat mustard greens here.
  • Acacia suaveolens (sweet scented wattle) is part of the critically endangered Eastern Suburbs Banksia scrub community. I grow it outside my house and I can testify to its sweet smell, which is not at all overpowering. This wattle grows about 2.5 metres and has a lovely sprawling habit, with multiple stems reaching out in a vase shape. It produces masses of seed which I collect around October, and can be germinated using the hot water or scarifying methods. Read more here.

DIY Seed-Raising Mix Course, 22/8/21

Milkwood’s Best Ever Seed Raising Mix – recipe for your mix – you’ll need coir, worm castings, compost, coarse sand, aged manure

How to ferment and collect tomato seeds best ways to ferment and dry seeds

Coir Peat Bricks – get this $2 one, not the expensive $8 worm bed ones (exactly the same thing but 4 x the price!)

Gardenate – to find out what to grow in this season – choose temperate region if you’re in Sydney

How to Grow Microgreens and Sprouts – easy instructions and videos on how to stack

How to produce cuttings from herbs – sage, thyme, rosemary etc

14 store bought vegetables and herbs you can grow – easy video to follow – lettuce, celery etc

Local Seed Network Manual – free download

Seed to Seed Food Gardens – free download, written for schools wanting to set up gardens, but can be used for starting your home garden

Sydney local networks

Inner West Seed Savers – inner west of Sydney, Sells through Alfalfa House $1

Seed saving networks – alternative sources of seeds, find your local network – Buy Seeds Savers Handbook from here, this is the bible of seed saving, everything you need to know

Grow it Local – find gardeners close to you, list your own patch and seeds you have available

Best seed suppliers (non-GM, organic or heirloom)

The Seed Collection – Ferntree Gully, Vic

Greenpatch – Glenthorne, NSW

Eden Seeds – Beechmont, Qld

The Diggers Club – Heronswood, Vic

Boondie – New England, NSW

The Lost Seed – Macksville, NSW (great bulk seeds)

Seed Freaks – own seeds, 85% locally produced Tassie (many others are importing from overseas)

Happy Valley Sydney – Riverstone, NSW

Image courtesy Markus Spiske on Unsplash

A recording of one of my seed-raising sessions is available here.

chicory Permaculture

The necessary nutrients

  • by Jessica

The chicory plants in our garden have gone mental.

Not that I love chicory, I’m not even sure I really like it that much. But a couple of years ago my local hardware store was closing, and I couldn’t resist the 50-cent plant specials sitting on the table. I knew that if I didn’t buy them on this last day, then the hardware store wouldn’t compost, or donate them, nor put them to any useful purpose. They’d just be added to a massive methane-spewing landfill, one more pollutant among many.

So I bought them thinking, a little chicory would be healthy, we don’t have enough bitter veg in our lives.

But since then, the chicory population in our garden has exploded. Through some miraculous mode of delivery, seed, spawn, alien-love, God-knows, from the back garden to the distant front, they’ve spread. Tiny seedlings soon turn into giant-rooted multi-leaved behemoths. A multitude more than we can ever eat. I keep pulling them up and potting them for any unwary passersby who expresses even the vaguest of interest.

‘What’s that weird thing crawling on that lettuce-looking plant…?’

‘That’s chicory, you want some?’

‘No not the plant, the insect. What’s that insect?’

‘I really think you should take some chicory, it’s really good for you.’

Sometimes I forget about the re-planted chicory, and they die in small pots. Or they seem to die.

Utterly brown and withered, seemingly bereft of life, the small pots sit in a saucer and it rains, and then a miracle occurs. From a dry leafless stump the chicory appears again.

So we’ve adapted.

We’ve learned to like bitter chicory, so long as we mix it up with the sweeter stalks of rainbow chard, and herbs like parsley, and the mundanity of lettuce, it’s fine. Life should be an interesting mix, shouldn’t it? How dull would it otherwise be? And how much less resilient, and less healthy would we be, if we all just ate iceberg lettuce?

That’s my theory about Nature too.

After all these years of working with her, I think that we’ve forgotten her in her pot. She’s wilted and in some places is seemingly dead, but if we give her the right ingredients, my theory is she’ll probably thrive again. Provided we haven’t polluted her beyond her tipping point.

Similarly, I have these questions about society. Could a disconnected society, when brought back to its origins, watered, fed, and reconnected with the right nutrients, thrive again?

I’d really love to know. Let’s look and see what people have done in local settings to achieve these healthier outcomes, and how we might replicate their results on a larger scale.

[An excerpt from my latest project. Do you want to keep reading? If you do, let me know. This could the start of a fabulous new adventure for us.]

Image of farm house with long grass in the foreground Permaculture

The Hutch

  • by Jess

Finally, a taker for the hutch comes to me through Marketplace. The hutch is free, but she offers $25. I say she can have it. Maybe she didn’t read the ad. It’s free.

She asks if I can deliver, she has heart failure, and cannot come. No problem, I’m driving past anyway. Even though the hutch is large and awkward I can shift it on my own, perhaps with the help of a passerby. She calls me luv, and says to take my time. I’m guessing she’s an old lady.

The day is sweltering, and smoke from the bushfires cloaks everything, it’s hard to breathe. ‘I’ll give you $30 luv,’ says the lady on Messenger, ‘because of all this heat and this smoke luv, you shouldn’t be out in it.’ Still I only want a clear room, and she’s doing me a favour, this hutch has taken up space for 3 months.

I arrive at the house. A beaten up old cottage, lead paint flaking onto dried yellowing grass. I approach the screen door, a sign on it says visitors should inform next of kin, if there’s no response. I am taken aback.

She comes to the door, a large woman, not much older than me, face puffy and red, and skin terribly sore and peeled. She offers to help, but I ask her to wait inside.

As I drag the hutch inside I notice very little furniture. A small dog scrambles at her heels. She says thank you luv, thank you for coming in this awful smoke and heat.

She has $30 scrunched up in her swollen hand, and pushes it into mine, I push it back, ‘no that’s not necessary’, but she insists, putting both hands around mine, scrunching them with the bunched up bills. Drawing me to her, she pulls me into a big hug and tears fill my eyes.

Photo credit:
Dan Meyers

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